Process of manufacturing shoes



Sept. 4, 192a. 1,682,868

' J.,s. TOUCHE PROCESS OF MANUFACTURING SHOES Filed 192? 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 JEEEE' '5. TmucJ-LE Sept.'4, 1923, 1,682,868

J. 5. TOUCHE PROCESS OF MANUFACTURING SHOES Filed Sept-v, 1927 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 I I i a v a; ar/I114 will/1 15 Jorge 5. T nuuh mation of ordinary McKay l arch, and the 3 and 4 of the drawings.- The inner sole B, which is the permanent inner sole, covers the entire bottom of the last A, in accordance with conventional practice. This inner sole is preferably of leather, although it may be of other suitable material.

The temporary metal sole piece C and the temporary nailing sole D are of exactly the same shape, each including a sole portion 20, and a shank 21 terminating at its rear edge 22 short ofthe normal heel seat of the last and inner solo. The metal sole C is of course of rigid formation, and bent to conform to the bottom of the last sole tread and temporary nailing sole D is preferably flexible and may conform to the archingof the last and metal sole piece C, and the said temporary nailing sole D is preferably of leather, or it may be of other suitable material, such as cardboard, or the like. The side edges of the sole pieces C and D lie flush with each other, and the said sole pieces are in an entirely conforming relation when applied to the bottom of the inner sole B after the latter has been assembledion the last. The said sole pieces C and D are assembled in aparticular relation upon the bottom of the inner sole B, audit is to be particularly noted that there is a marginal edge designated at 25 in Figure 4 of the drawings, and extending between the side edges of the sole pieces C and D and the outer edges of the inner sole B, which the sole pieces C and D do not overlap. The dimension of this margin 25 may vary, although it is preferably y ths of an inch for the forshoes. Thus it is to be noted that margina y about the sides edges of the inner sole, on the bottom surface of the inner sole, the sole pieces C and D do not overlap and in this'space 25 the stitching of the upper takes place in a relation of partsto be subsequently mentioned. The soles C and Dare of a temporary nature and are secured in position by means of tacks 28 and 29 at the sole and arch ortions respectively; the metal solepiece apertured for the placement of eac pair of tacks 28 and 29, as illustrated in the drawin s.

ubsequent to the placing of the permanent inner sole B and temporary sole ieces C and D on the last A, the upper l is next assmbled and ap lied in conventional manner, the bottom edge of the upper B being overlapped beneath the lastsoles B, C and D, andtacks 30 secure the portion offthe upper E which overlaps the heel seat 16 of the permanent 'inner sole B, to the ermanent inner sole, and it may be to the ast,in case 'the last is not suitably reinforced to clinch the tacks 30. The tacks 31 along the margins at the sides of the sole are driven thru the edging of the upper E into the marginal portions of the temporary engagement bein suitably nailing sole piece D, and the points of the said tacks 31 are clinched at 32 as they strike the metal sole piece C, as is illustrated in Figure 6 of the drawings, and the tacks 31 are thus prevented from sole B, or the last A. It is only at the heel seat that tacks enter the inner sole, and along the marginal sides and toe of the sole, the tacks 31 are clinched by being driven into with the hard preferably metal temporary sole C, as can readily be understood from Figure 6 of the drawings. In this view of Figure 6 are clearly shown the ortions 25 at the marginsof the permanent inner sole B, which extend beyond the side edges of the temporar sole pieces C and D. n the next step, t e last A is removed, and the upper is marginally stitched to the marginal portions 25 of the inner sole which extend laterally of the outer edges of the temporary sole pieces C and D, as is illustrated in Figures 8 and 9 of the drawings. \Vith this step the inner sole B is permanently secured or stitched to the sole overlapping portions of the upper E, and the last A may then beplaced in the shoe upper,

,as illustrated in Figure 10 of the drawings,

and in an approved cutting operation the material of the upper E between the row or line ofstitching 4:0 and the ad'acent edging of the temporary sole pieces and D is cut, at approximately the location 42 illustrated in igure 10 of the drawings, this cutting line followin the stitching at the inside thereof, and the cutting continues about the margins of the shoe sole to the heel seat of the last, where the trim of the upper E, together with the temporary sole pieces C and D are severed; the relation in which the trim of the upper E and thesole pieces C and D lift away from the ermanent inner sole B being more parlticu arly illustrated inFi are 11, it being shown in; cross section inlligure 12 that the inner sole is neatly stitched to the margins of the u 3P6! overlapping the inner sole. The 5' 0e is then finished with any approved and appropriate construction well known to the art. From the foregoing description of this invention it is apparent that a novel method for making shoes has been rovided, which does away with tacking of t e u per to the inner sole and to the last. T e method shown facilitates not only the manufacture of the shoe,but provides a better appearing job, and renders the manufacture of the shoe more ex ditious. The temporary nailing sole D i made of leather, may easily be reclaimed by pulling the uppertrim and tacks therefrom. It is even contemplated to remove the clinched tacks immediately after the stitching operation and thus to remove the sole pieces C and D, and permit the trim of the upper to remain in place overthe entering the inner bottom of the inner sole. This, however, is not preferred, but is optional.

Various changes in the steps of the method of manufacturing shoes herein illustrated and described, aswell as changes in the shape, size, and rearrangement of parts may be made without departing from the invention or the scope of the claims.

I claim:

1. Those steps in the method of manufacturing shoes which consist in securing an inner sole to the bottom of a last, securing a metallic sole piece on the bottom surface of the inner sole in non-overlapping relation with the marginal portions of the inner sole, securing a. temporary nailing strip over the metallic sole piece, drawing an upper over the last in margin-overlapping relation to the inner sole and the temporary nailing strip, tacking the marginal portions of the upper to the temporary nailing strip so that the points of the tacks engage the metal sole and clinch on the temporary nailing strip to secure the upper margin thereto without entry of the tacks into the inner sole or last, removing the last, stitching the upper beyond the peripheral edges of the metal sole to the marginal portion of the inner sole, removing the temporary nailing strip, clinched tacks, and metal sole without mutilation of said stitching, and finishing the shoe in any approved manner.

2. Those steps in the art of shoe manufacturing which consists in securing a permanent inner sole to the tread of a last, applying a metallic sole piece over the sole portion of the inner sole of less width than the latter so that the inner sole margin extends beyond the peripheral edge of the metallic sole piece, applying a temporary nailing sole over the metallic sole piece, drawing an upper over the last and nailing it to the tem porary nailing sole so that the tacks clinch upon the metallic sole piece without entering the inner sole and last, stitching the upper at its edge portion to the marginal part 01' the inner sole which extends beyond the edge of the metallic sole piece, removing the metallic sole piece and temporary nailing sole with clinched tacks from the upper and inner sole, and finishing the shoe in any approved manner.

3. The method of manufacturing McKay shoes which consists, in applying an inner sole to the bottom of a last, applying a metal sole piece and temporary sole pieceot' the same shape and formation and each of less width than the corresponding portion of the inner sole over the inner sole so that the marginal edge of the inner sole is exposed beyond the peripheral edges of the said me tallic and temporary tacking soles, securing an upper to the heel seat of the inner sole, tacking the edge of the upper to the temporary tacking sole so the tacks clinch the temporary tacking sole upon the metallic sole piece, stitching the upper to the marginally extending portion of the inner sole, removing the metallic sole, the temporary tacking sole, and clinched tacks on the temporary tacking sole from the upper and last, removing the last, and finishing the shoe in any approved manner.

a. The method of manufacturing shoes which consists in securing a flexible perma nent inner sole to the bottom oi": the last at the sole and heel seat of the last, securing a metal temporary sole piece over the under surface of the inner sole along the body and margin portions of the inner sole and terminating short of the heel seat of the inner sole, securing a temporary tacking sole to the outer surface of the metal sole piece and of the same shape as the metal sole, said metal sole piece and temporary tacking sole being applied to the inner sole so that marginal portions of the latter extend beyond the side and toe peripheries of said metal sole piece and temporary tacking sole, placing anupper about the last andtacking it to the heel seat of thepermanent inner sole, tacking the upper to the temporary nailingsole immediately over the metal sole piece to clinch the tacks on the temporary tacking sole and prevent entry thereof into the inner sole and last, stitching the upper at the under surface of the margin of the inner sole, cutting away and removing the metal sole piece and temporary tacking sole, clinched tacks and trim of the upper between the line of stitching and peripheral edge of the metal sole piece, and finishing the shoe in approved manner.

JORGE S. TOUOHE.

Sir 

